Good horse care is unglamorous and repetitive, and that is precisely why it works. Most health problems seen by vets across Europe are the result of inconsistency rather than ignorance: irregular forage, sudden feed changes, missed dental appointments and turnout that varies week to week.
This guide sets out the routine that prevents most of it.
The Daily Routine
- Morning: check the horse over before anything else — eyes, legs, appetite, droppings, demeanour. Fresh water. Forage. Turnout.
- Middle of the day: water check, especially in frost and in heat.
- Evening: bring in or check in the field, forage for the night, quick legs-and-feet inspection, rug adjusted to the actual forecast.
Two short observations a day catch almost everything early. A horse that leaves feed, stands away from the herd, or lies down more than usual is telling you something.
Feeding Principles
- Forage first. A horse should eat 1.5–2.5% of its bodyweight in dry matter daily, the majority as forage. Long gaps without forage are the leading dietary cause of gastric ulcers.
- Little and often. The stomach is small and secretes acid continuously.
- Change slowly. Introduce any new feed or forage over 10–14 days.
- Feed the work, not the horse's optimism. Most leisure horses in Europe are overfed concentrates and underfed forage.
- Balanced minerals. A forage-only diet usually needs a balancer to meet copper, zinc, selenium and vitamin E requirements.
- Water always. A horse drinks 25–55 litres a day, more in work or heat.
Weigh feed rather than scooping it, and body-condition score monthly.
Preventative Health Calendar
| Task | Frequency |
|---|---|
| Farrier | Every 5–8 weeks |
| Dentist | Every 6–12 months |
| Vaccinations (influenza, tetanus) | Per national and FEI schedule |
| Faecal worm egg count | Every 8–12 weeks in grazing season |
| Body condition score | Monthly |
| Saddle fit check | Every 6 months, or after weight change |
| Physiotherapy assessment | Annually for horses in regular work |
Targeted worming based on egg counts has replaced routine dosing across most of Europe; blanket worming drives resistance.
Field and Foot
- Check fencing weekly and after storms.
- Poo-pick regularly — it is the cheapest parasite control available.
- Watch spring and autumn grass for laminitis-prone horses; restrict grazing rather than removing turnout entirely.
- Pick out feet daily and know what healthy frog and sole look like on your horse.
Seasonal Management
Spring
Rising sugar in grass, shedding coats, and the start of the fly season. Introduce grazing gradually and start the fly programme before it becomes a problem.
Summer
Shade, water, and fly protection. Work in the cooler part of the day and monitor hydration and electrolytes on hot weeks.
Autumn
Forage stocks secured and stored dry. Reassess condition before winter and adjust feed before the horse loses weight, not after.
Winter
Rug to the actual temperature and coat, not the calendar. Ice-free water is the single most important winter task; horses drink less in cold weather, and impaction colic follows.
Signs That Warrant a Call to the Vet
- Any degree of lameness that does not resolve within 24 hours.
- Not eating, or a marked change in droppings.
- Rolling, pawing, flank-watching or sweating without work.
- A temperature above 38.5°C.
- Nasal discharge that is coloured, or a persistent cough.
- Any wound near a joint, however small.
Know your horse's normal temperature, pulse and respiration. It makes the phone call far more useful.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much turnout does a horse need?
As much as safely possible. Horses evolved to move and forage for the majority of the day; the more turnout, the fewer behavioural and respiratory problems, and generally the sounder the horse.
Do horses need rugs?
Many do not. A healthy, unclipped horse with shelter and adequate forage copes with cold well. Clipped horses, elderly horses, hard keepers and those without shelter usually do need rugging.
How do I know if my horse is the right weight?
Learn to body-condition score by feel: ribs easily felt but not seen, a flat topline over the loin, no hard fat pads at the crest or tailhead. Photographs monthly from the same angles are surprisingly revealing.
Is a supplement necessary?
A forage balancer usually is. Beyond that, most supplements address problems the horse does not have. Ask what specific deficiency or condition the product is meant to address, and test rather than guess.
What should be in a yard first-aid kit?
A digital thermometer, clean dressings, self-adhesive bandage, sterile saline, antiseptic, blunt scissors, a poultice, and your vet's number written where anyone can find it.